I do a lot of educational clinics where I teach rider skills and training techniques, along with bridling exercises. A horse needs to be comfortable in the bridle and when horses aren't improving at a clinic, we check their bridles. Inevitably, I find situations where the headstall is too tight or loose, bent, crooked, pinching and I find rough bits. In this column I will provide descriptions and specifications of two ideal bridles -- ones that are used by many professional horse trainers.
Bridles -- Two types of bridles are shown in the -- a snaffle bridle and curb bridle. A snaffle bridle (left) is for two-handed horse training and is a must for every serious horse owner. A curb bridle (right) is for use on more finished horses that can be ridden one-handed. Both bridles in photo 1. are functionally correct in their design/construction.
Both headstalls are made of high-quality leather for strength and safety. Both headstalls are attached to the bits with leather ties rather than Chicago screws. Chicago screws have a tendency to work loose. If you use screws, check them before each ride. Also, both headstalls have holes punched every 1/2 inch in the cheek pieces. This allows for greater flexibility when adjusting the headstall for maximium fit and comfort versus when holes are every inch.
The snaffle bridle has a brow band and a throat latch strap. Since we pull on young horses more, we need to be sure the bit stays level in the horse's mouth and that the horse's ears are not pinched with each pull, so a brow band is used. Horses sometimes rub their heads when being tied around in the bitting process. The throat latch strap keeps the bridle from being rubbed off. The curb bridle has a single ear piece to keep the bridle in place and it is large enough not to pinch the horse's right ear.
Bits -- Entire books have been written about bridle bits. Take into account the age and level of training of your horse and his disposition when buying bits. Then always select a bit that is balanced or symmetrical on both sides. It should not pinch the lips, cheek or the tongue. Also select a bit's with metal that is tasteful to the horse such as iron that will rust and cold rolled steel. Cooper inlaid into mouth pieces promotes salivation leading to moist soft mouths. Horses that slobber almost always have the best mouths. Stay away from stainless steel and aluminum mouthpieces which dry out a horse's mouth.
The snaffle and curb bits in Photo 1 are standard bits that fit most western stock horses. The pictured snaffle bit has three inch side rings, a broken 5 1/2- inch long, 3/8 inch diameter (at the corners) iron mouth piece with inlaid copper. This bit works only on the corners of the horse's mouth and is not painful to the horse when used properly. A strap is on the snaffle bit, to keep the bit from pulling through the horse's mouth. This is not a functional curb strap because there is no leverage action on any snaffle bit.
The curb bit in photo 1 has 7-inch swivel shanks, a solid 5 and 1/2 inch long, 3/8 inch diameter (at the corners), iron mouth piece with inlaid cooper plus a high port for maximum tongue relief. This curb bit acts on the bars of the mouth, the chin groove and some on the tongue. Notice the chain which will touch the horse's chin groove when the reins are pulled. This is a leverage action bit because of the chin chain. Therefore, it is a curb bit.
Reins -- Reins need to be made of good harness leather with a lot of body so they feel good in the rider's hands and the horse can easily feel the reins on his neck. When purchasing reins, consider the length, width, and weight or thickness of the reins.
The reins on both bridles in photo 1 are 8 feet long, 5/8 inch in width, and 1/4 inch in thickness. The length is important because it allows a rider to use different arm level positions when training and for tying horses around. Rein width depends on the size of the rider's hands. Adult riders usually prefer wider/heavier reins (3/4 inch) on young horses (ridden with two hands) and narrower/lighter reins (1/2 inch) on more finished horses to be ridden one-handed. Notice that all the reins in photo1. are thicker on the tail end than on the bit end. This is important so the tails always hang down, so the right rein stays up on the horse's neck when leading him with the left rein and for spanking him down the lower hip, if impulsion is needed.
Notice the reins are attached to the bits with leather loops; not buckles, snaps or screws. Why? Cowboys used to let their horse drink from the creeks and graze with their bridles on. The cowboys knew that if their horse stepped on a rein he'd break the rein or cut his tongue. So, they put string or small leather strips through the loops holding the reins so it would easily break when stressed. This attachment became known as a "water loop." Now long leather strips are used in the water loops more for looks than for function. Baseball glove strings are in the water loops on the reins in photo 1.
Bridles such as these will cost about $150 each. If properly cared for, they will last a lifetime. The two bridles in photo 1 have been used for 20 to 25 years and are still like new.
Photo 1. Standard snaffle bit bridle and curb bit bridle used by many professional horse trainers. Post photo courtesy of Doug Householder.
Doug Householder is an educator in the horse industry. His e-mail address is dh-horse@flash.net.
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